Best Training Crates for Puppies

TL;DR

For most puppies, a simple wire crate with a divider and an easy-clean tray is the most practical way to support house training while keeping your pup safely contained. If your puppy is anxious, chews bars, or is already finding ways to pop latches, skip the “starter” tier and consider a heavy-duty crate sooner rather than later. For travel, don’t assume any training crate is crash-safe — look for products that are explicitly crash-tested, and talk to your vet if your puppy’s anxiety makes confinement difficult.

Top Recommended Training Crates for Puppies

Top Pick: Best Overall Training Crate for Puppies

MidWest Homes for Pets 30-Inch iCrate Dog Crate

Best for: most puppies doing daily at-home crate training (especially in a bedroom or living room where flexible placement matters).

The Good

• Divider-friendly style for house training: A wire training crate format is ideal when you want airflow and visibility so your puppy can settle while still feeling “included,” and a divider helps prevent the common issue of a puppy pottying in one corner and sleeping in another (AKC crate-training guidance supports the “right-sized space” approach).
• Two doors make real life easier: Double-door access is a big quality-of-life improvement when the crate needs to fit against a wall, near a nightstand, or in a tight apartment layout — you can choose the door that gives you the cleanest, least awkward entry for your pup.
• Fast setup for new-puppy chaos: If you’re juggling potty trips, feeding schedules, and naps, a crate that opens and locks together without drama matters for consistency.
• Good visibility for monitoring: During early training, being able to quickly see whether your puppy is settling, chewing bedding, or looking like they need a potty break can prevent accidents and reduce stress for everyone.

The Bad

• Not the right tool for serious chewers: If your puppy is already biting and yanking on bars, or trying to bend wire, a standard wire crate can become a safety issue (broken teeth, scraped gums, or escape attempts that get a paw stuck).
• Not a crash-safety product: Even if it’s fine for home training, don’t treat a typical wire crate as a crash-tested travel crate. For in-car safety, Center for Pet Safety resources are a better starting point than “car crate” marketing.
• May need a secondary clip for clever pups: Some puppies learn to paw at latches; if yours does, it’s smart to add a backup clip rather than hoping the habit disappears.

“Very sturdy and simple to put together. No tools required for assembly. Basically unfolds and clips into place.” — verified buyer, 5 stars

Our Take: If you want one practical crate that fits the day-to-day rhythm of puppy house training, this is the style we’d start with — then upgrade only if your puppy’s behavior demands it.

EliteField 3-Door Folding Soft Dog Crate 24x18x21

Best for: a calm, already-settling puppy who needs a supervised indoor “nap spot” or a lightweight option for occasional travel (think: visiting family, not daily car commuting).

The Good

• Easy to set up and collapse: Soft-sided crates shine when you need something you can put away between uses — helpful if you don’t want a permanent crate footprint in a small space.
• Multiple doors for flexible access: Three-door designs can make it easier to place the crate beside a couch or bed and still have a usable entry, which can reduce the “drag the crate to reach the door” problem.
• Comfortable “den-like” feel: Many puppies rest well in a more enclosed visual environment, especially once they’ve learned that the crate predicts quiet time (ASPCA crate-training tips emphasize making the crate a positive, restful space).
• Good option after the basics are solid: If your puppy is past the frantic phase and you’ve done steady crate conditioning, a soft crate can be a convenient second crate for specific situations.

The Bad

• Not for chewers or escape attempts: If your puppy mouths fabric, scratches at mesh, or panics when confined, soft-sided crates can be destroyed quickly — and ingestion of fabric/mesh is a real risk.
• Harder to “hose out” after major accidents: A pee pad mishap is one thing, but repeated diarrhea/vomit incidents can be more labor-intensive to sanitize thoroughly than a wire crate with a removable tray.
• Supervision matters: For many young puppies, this is best used when you’re in the room and can intervene before chewing or scratching escalates.

“The major pro of this crate is that it is extremely easy to put together.” — verified buyer, 4 stars

Our Take: This can be a smart second crate for the right puppy — but for true “training crate” duty in the early weeks, most owners will do better with wire or another chew-resistant option.

Impact Dog Crates Indestructible High Anxiety Dog Crate

Best for: a high-anxiety puppy or adolescent who is already bending wire, popping latches, or repeatedly escaping (the kind of situation where containment is becoming a safety issue).

The Good

• Heavy-duty containment for tough cases: If you’re past “normal puppy whining” and into real escape behavior, a reinforced, purpose-built crate can be the safer route than cycling through broken wire crates.
• Designed with anxious dogs in mind: The appeal here is reducing failure points — fewer flexy parts and sturdier hardware can help when a dog is throwing their weight at doors.
• More confidence for owners who need reliability: When you have to shower, work, or sleep without worrying about an escape, a more secure crate can help you stick to a consistent plan.
• Useful if you’re working alongside a pro: If your vet suspects separation anxiety (or your trainer is helping with confinement distress), a sturdier crate can be part of a broader behavior plan — not a standalone “fix.”

The Bad

• Price is out of reach for most puppy households: This is a specialized purchase, not a typical “first crate.”
• Door-related complaints exist in owner feedback: Even premium crates can have quirks; pay attention to fit/alignment and test the door operation immediately when it arrives.
• Bulky and less portable: Heavy-duty usually means heavy — which matters if you planned to move the crate room-to-room or travel with it.

Our Take: This is the “buy once, cry once” direction for serious escape behavior — but if your puppy is simply new to crating, start with training and a standard wire crate before jumping to this tier.

FAQ

What size crate should I get for a puppy?

A puppy’s crate should be big enough for them to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably — but not so large that they can potty on one end and sleep on the other. Most owners handle this by buying a crate sized for the dog’s expected adult size and using a divider panel to shrink the usable space while the puppy grows (the AKC crate-training guidance discusses right-sizing and building positive crate habits). If you’re unsure, ask your vet or breeder for an adult-size estimate and measure your puppy regularly as they develop.

Is a single-door or double-door crate better for crate training?

Double-door crates are usually easier for puppy training because you can place the crate in more spots (against a wall, beside a bed, in a corner) and still have a convenient entry. This matters when you’re trying to reward calm behavior quickly, clip a leash on smoothly, or remove bedding after an accident without awkward angles. A single-door crate can still work well if you have plenty of space and a straightforward setup.

How do I use a divider panel for potty training?

Set the divider so your puppy can stand, turn, and lie down — then keep it there until your puppy has been staying clean and dry in the crate consistently. As your puppy grows, expand the space gradually in small increments rather than giving them a big jump in room. This approach helps reinforce the natural tendency many dogs have to avoid soiling their sleeping area while still keeping the crate comfortable.

How long can a puppy stay in a crate?

It depends on age, bladder capacity, and your puppy’s comfort with the crate, but puppies generally need frequent potty breaks and should not be crated for long stretches as a default routine. Humane training guidance emphasizes that crates shouldn’t be used for punishment or excessive confinement; instead, treat the crate as a safe rest space paired with exercise, training, and social time. For broader training best practices in early development, see the AVSAB position statements, and check in with your vet if you’re unsure what’s appropriate for your puppy’s age and health.

What’s the best way to clean a puppy crate after accidents?

Remove bedding immediately, wash it on hot if the fabric allows, and clean the crate surface with an enzyme-based cleaner designed for pet messes (it helps break down odor compounds that can cue repeat accidents). Crates with removable trays are the easiest to reset quickly — especially in the early weeks when urine, diarrhea, or vomit can happen. Let everything dry fully before reassembling, and keep a spare towel/blanket so you’re not tempted to put a damp crate back into service.

When should I switch to a heavy-duty crate?

Consider a heavy-duty crate if your puppy is bending wire, breaking welds, popping latches, or chewing bars to the point where you’re worried about injury or ingestion. Repeated escapes are also a safety issue — your puppy could get into electrical cords, toxic foods, or other hazards while you’re asleep or out. If the behavior looks like panic rather than boredom, talk with your vet; separation-related distress can require a behavior plan, not just “stronger equipment.”

Are soft-sided crates safe for puppies?

Soft-sided crates can be safe for puppies who are already calm in confinement and don’t chew or claw at the walls — but they’re not a great first choice for many young puppies. If your puppy chews fabric/mesh, tries to push out, or shows panic behaviors, a soft crate can fail quickly and create ingestion or escape risks. In that case, stick with a sturdier crate and focus on gradual crate conditioning (the ASPCA crate-training tips are a solid overview of making the crate a positive place).

Is a wire training crate safe to use in the car?

Not necessarily. Many standard wire training crates are designed for home use and are not crash-tested, so you shouldn’t assume they provide meaningful protection in an accident. If car safety is a major goal, look for products that are explicitly crash-tested and follow installation instructions closely; Center for Pet Safety resources are a helpful place to learn what “tested” actually means.

Bottom Line

For most puppies, a wire training crate with easy access and a cleanable setup is the most practical, budget-friendly way to support house training and build a predictable daily routine. Our top pick is the MidWest Homes for Pets iCrate because it fits that “starter crate that actually gets used every day” role well. If your puppy is already escalating into chewing or escaping, it’s worth moving up to a heavier-duty option sooner to keep confinement safe.

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